Right: Wine map of France

In the triangle formed near the Mediterranean coast by Nice in the east, Marseille in the west and Avignon to the northwest, lies the region of Provence.

Provence was the first region in France to turn to winemaking some 2,600 years ago. Today some 500 wineries tend vineyards on 68,000 acres — tiny by comparison to the nearly ten times larger 6.7 million acres of Languedoc-Roussillon.

Here the siliceous and limestone soils cooperate with mild winters and hot summers to grow Grenache and Syrah, as well as Ugni Blanc, Rolle and Clairette, among others.

Long considered a producer of mediocre wine, the region has been experiencing a renaissance on the last few decades. Though regulations have caused many do forgo obtaining the vaunted AOC label (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, an administrative designation that regulates wine production), the VDQS (Vin de Qualité Supérieur, a step below AOC) wines are in taste second to none.

A large variety of grapes are used in Provence, but the rosé continues to be a specialty of the region, with 75 percent of the total production of 140 million bottles, forty-five percent of total French rosé output. Made from Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and others its fruity zest is dry.

The Bandol and Bellet produced here are treasured by connoisseurs of great wine.

Bandol vines grow on the hills between La Ciotat and Toulon, facing the Mediterranean Sea. The vineyards here, first planted by Romans 2,500 years ago, are among the oldest in France. The nearby port of Marseille has served as a staging point for exporting Bandol to India and Brazil for two centuries.

The spicy, red Mourvèdre grown here is the starting point for one of the best full-bodied Provence reds available. But coming from only 2,700 acres and leading to only 5 million bottles it can be difficult to find.

Bellet, just west of Nice, is one of the smallest appellations in France. The mere 80 acres of siliceous and chalky hills on which grow Rolle and Chardonnay are so steep they can only be worked by hand.

But those hands produce 80,000 bottles of some of the best aromatic whites, fresh rosés, and delicate reds available. And the local Braquet forms a red that can age up to 10 years. If you can find them, be sure to pay attention to the honey and banana overtones of the white, especially good with shellfish and Banon cheese.

For a real treat, try to visit the Château Sainte Roseline, under cultivation for seven centuries. On less than 300 acres these master vintners grow 11 varieties of grape including Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cabernet Sauvignon to make red, and include Cinsault and Tibouren for the famous rosé, and Rolle and Sémillon to make whites.

Enjoy!

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Right: Wine map of France

The Loire Valley, near Nantes in western France, is one of the most beautiful winemaking areas in Europe. A narrow, but wide region following the Loire river, it meanders from Auvergne and the Massif Central mountains to the Atlantic coast.

Vines producing wine grapes existed here as far back as the Roman invasion into the Loire Valley. Historians assert that as long ago as 380 AD reds were made in the surrounding hills and whites were fermented on the river banks.

The climate varies considerably over this wide region, with mild Atlantic weather winter and summer in the west, and cold winters and warm summers in the interior area.

In contrast to Bordeaux where 75% of the production is red, in the Loire three quarters goes to the creation of whites, with the main grapes being Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon. Most of the remaining quarter of red is produced from Cabernet Franc, with some Gamay and Pinot Noir.

Total production reaches 400 million bottles, the end product of grapes grown in clay-limestone, siliceous and chalky soils. Types range from dry whites to sweet, and rosé to fruity reds.

In the eastern part of the valley, around Pouilly and Sancerre, most of the grapes used for winemaking are Sauvignon Blanc. These go into making the delicious dry, white Pouilly-Fumé. The other bank around Sancerre produces the robust, dry eponymous white.

Further west in the province of Touraine, one finds predominantly Chenin Blanc, which forms the starting point of the fruity Montlouis. Also made here are the glorious red Loire wines, Bourgueil and Chinon, mostly from Cabernet Franc.

And on the right bank of the Loire river, close to Tours don’t miss out on a lovely dry Vouvray. The product of Chenin Blanc grown in clay infested limestone and chalk, 13 million bottles are produced in the area on almost 5,000 acres.

Touraine’s neighbor to the west, Anjou-Saumur, also produces a delectable white from Chenin Blanc, famed for its smooth quality. Winemakers cluster around Angers as they have since the 6th century. Famous for the Rosé d’Anjou, it’s reported to have been enjoyed by King Henry II of England. But the commoner can also enjoy the oak aged whites. With fifty-five million bottles produced from land covering 22,000 acres, there’s no fear of running out.

Coteaux du Layon is the widest wine area of the Anjou region lying along the Layon river where the vines are protected by the hills. Best known for a sweet wine purported to be from a recipe 15 centuries old. Harvest here is late, where the growers leave the grapes on the vines until they begin to over-ripen. Nearly 7 million bottles are produced from 4,450 acres.

Last, but certainly far from least, we finish our tour with the well-known Muscadet, which sits at the far west of the Loire Valley. Here is produced a pale white, lovely in its dry, astringent taste. Best drunk when fresh and young, by connoisseurs of any age. From its 31,000 acres of granite soil rises vines which produce grapes that fill nearly 100 million bottles, so take your time.

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Languedoc-Roussillon, the largest wine producing region in the world, lies on the border of the Mediterranean sea, between the Rhone delta and Spain.

Fifty thousand vine growers (out of a population of 2.4 million) spread over an area of 27,400 square kilometers (10,500 square miles) swelter in the intense summers for the sake of producing over 2 billion bottles of wine.

The mild winters and hot summers cooperate with diverse soil types ranging from limestone and sandstone to granite pebbles to host Carignan, Grenache, Merlot and other reds. Not to be left behind the Roussane, Viognier, Chardonnay and other whites add to provide ample work for the 400 cooperatives and 2,800 private wineries in a region from Muscat in the east to Banyuls in the southwest.

Originally the work of Greeks who began cultivation around the 6th century BC, after the Roman conquest viticulture developed quickly, then continued under the Visigoths in the 5th century. As the monasteries of the 9th century grew, so did the hillside vineyards, where the valleys were reserved for grains. The 19th century saw the plains conversion to vineyards as well. Today, viticulture is concentrated in the plains of Aude, Herault and Gard. These three regions produce nearly one-half of France’s total grape output.

For many years, the area saw the production of a great many mediocre wines, but a renaissance of sorts in the last few decades has led to the resurgence of extraordinary Syrah. Opaque, purple-colored, with aromas of sweet blackberry spiced by black pepper and cassis.

Over the past 10 years the Vin de Pays d’Oc has also been helping to improve the area’s reputation, with its unique regional characteristics, such as the earthy Minervois and Corbières.

Unlike other winegrowing regions, where individual Châteaux dominate, most here are produced by cooperatives that purchase grapes from local growers. These include the delicious Vin Doux Naturel made from Muscat or Grenache. The process involves adding grape spirit which halts fermentation, preserving sweetness and raising alcohol levels to 15-16 percent. The Muscat de Frontignan or Banyuls make for delightful dessert wines that can compete with a Port for aging potential.

Whites too have been making a comeback with the Chardonnay and the Marsanne grown in Argelier, 30km (18.6 mi) west of Beziers. Here the grapes grown in chalky soil are harvested early, then allowed only a few hours skin contact prior to pressing. The result is a fresh, dry white with aromas of apple and oak.

For those who cannot be torn from red, there’s the spicy and full-bodied Corbières made from Grenache and Carignan grown in limestone, marl and sandstone. With over 70 million bottles capable of aging 3-7 years there’s little danger of running out.

Moving from the hills of Corbières to the Pyrenees one lands in Roussillon, the sunniest region of France. More similar to Spain than other areas, the Carignan dominates to produce reds that are spicy and medium body, with hints of licorice.

Look for new developments from this large and ancient area of French winemaking.
 

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The Rhone Valley, looks very much like a miniature Italy as it stretches 200km (125 mi) from south of Lyon to just south of Avignon. Along this course the climate varies from the Rhone’s cold winters and warm summers to the classic Mediterranean where winters are mild and summers hot.

The relatively more constant sun combines with granitic soil in the north, limestone in the south to produce Grenache, Syrah and Carignan used in red wines, and Clairette, Ugni Blanc and Grenache Blanc for whites.

The Grenache dominates with 55 percent of the total red-making grape, the Clairette making up 35 percent of white. Combined 8-10 thousand winemakers, spread over an enormous 170,000 acres, produce 450 million bottles, 75 percent of which is devoted to the northern full-bodied of Co´te Ro´tie and the southern fruity reds of Chauteauneuf du Pape.

One village in particular, Chartreuse de Valbonne, enjoys a very different climate from that of the surrounding Mediterranean. Enfolded by forest atop horseshoe-shaped hills, there are numberless terraces composed of stony chalk and limestone. Some barrels of the area date back to the 13th century. Here are made plump Grenache Noir, spicy Syrah and Viognier Plump with aromas of violet and acacia honey.

Considered among the best of the Co´tes du Rho´ne villages are the distinctive Cairanne and Rasteau. Rasteau’s tannic Domaine du Trapadis will be preferred by those seeking a more zesty wine, while Cairanne’s softer Domaine Catherine Le Goeuil “made with techniques handed down from the Middle Ages” is appreciated by the easy-going.

From the 11,000 acres of the Co´tes du Rho´ne villages clay and stony limestone earth rise Grenache and Syrah grapes that produce 19 million bottles of medium body fruity reds.

The history of Gigondas wine traces back to the Romans, where good advantage is taken of the Mediterranean weather and the red clay soil to produce an aromatic alternative to the more expensive Chauteauneuf du Pape. On 3,000 acres vintners produce the Grenache, Syrah and Mourvaudre that go to make 5.5 million bottles.

For those whose tongue needs a little shock of pleasure seek out the Vignobles Darriaud’s Grenache Syrah, a full-bodied red with earthy and plummy aromas. Chocolate tones combine with a peppery finish, especially after aging for 3-5 years.

Best for last, the slope of Chauteauneuf du Pape, lying between Orange and Avignon, was once the summer home of many Popes. The wine is thick, powerful and a richly colored red made from Grenache, Syrah, Clairette and ten other varieties. On these 7,600 acres of quartz and sandy red clay grow the vines that produce 13 million bottles that can age up to 20 years with aromas of red fruits, cinnamon and vanilla.

But, who among us could wait that long?

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Champagne is not just a sparkling wine, but the region from which the famous drink derives its name. The climate of the area is cooler than that of the southern French vineyards, making for a shorter growing season.

Almost a hundred miles (144km) northeast of Paris near the Belgian border, it’s usually divided into three parts — the Côte des Blancs, the Vallée de la Marne and Montagne de Reims, though there are other zones.

Of the region’s 75,000 acres of vineyards, the largest portion and the greatest vineyards are planted in the département of the Marne.

The vines there sit comfortably in chalky soils, providing excellent natural moisture regulation with good drainage. The chalk reflects ample sunshine and heat upward to the grape and within to the roots. The thin layer of arable topsoil receives the needed addition of fertilizer by the regions world-class vintners, some of whom only work the land part-time.

The annual temperature hovers slightly above the minimum required to ripen grapes (50°F/10°C), where the best vineyards reside high enough to be clear of frost (above 90m/295ft), but low enough (below 210m/689ft) to be sheltered from extreme heat.

One premium example is the vineyards of Montagne de Reims, a forested plateau south of Reims. Blessed with a deep bed of crustaceous chalk beneath a thin layer of topsoil, the highly ranked Grand and Premier Cru are found in these two areas, where grows primarily Pinot Noir.

Among the northernmost vineyards, the unique micro-climate in Montagne is well suited for producing this variety, which goes into producing some of the world’s best champagne.

Along both banks of the River Marne lies the Vallée de la Marne, with predominantly south-facing, lower-lying vineyards, which produces largely Pinot Meunier. And just over 13 miles (21km) south of Epernay juts a ridge in Côte des Blancs where the chalk subsoil yields a glorious Chardonnay.

A newcomer to Champagne is Côte de Sézanne. Planted in the 1960’s almost exclusively with Chardonnay, its southern location allows the grapes to ripen better than many of the other zones.

In Champagne’s most southerly zone, we reach The Aube located about 70 miles (112km) south of Epernay, where the climate experiences greater temperature extremes. Less well-known, much of its output adds to numerous blends of the major champagne houses.

The theory of producing a great champagne is to blend together the best qualities from each of the best grapes grown in all these areas. The large houses store millions of gallons of wine from various vineyards for blending purposes. The blends are produced primarily from three varieties.

Pinot Meunier remains the dominant variety in Champagne, where it’s exclusively grown (on nearly 40% of the total acreage) and makes up the base for all but the most exclusive champagnes. Pinot Noir comes in a close second at about 35% of the total acreage. It provides much of the longevity of champagne. Chardonnay accounts for the remaining 25% and adds lightness.

Rightly acclaimed as one of the most important historical regions, Champagne’s quality remains undiminished in the modern world as well.

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Nowhere in France is the terroir concept —a group of vineyards (or vines) from the same region that share similar soil and climate— more dearly held than Burgundy.

Located in central east France, the region’s 1.6 million inhabitants endure cold Continental winters, but enjoy warm summers.

A region covering 31,500 square kilometers (over 12,000 square miles), Burgundy (Bourgogne) is rich in world and winemaking history. In this 360 km (225 mi) strip stretching 100km (60 mi) south of Paris, down from south of Dijon to north of Rhoône, can be found 99 different wine appellations.

Here over 180 million bottles of some of the world’s finest wines are made —  from the full-bodied reds Pommard and Corton to the medium Beaune — to the world class whites, the dry Chablis or Chassagne Montrachet.

As a consequence of the French revolution, the monastaries’ vineyards were confiscated, resulting in fragmentation into the system of small plots that prevails to this day.

Six hundred of the vineyards there merit the appellation ‘Premier Cru’, which designates the finest quality wine. Only 33 can boast the even more exclusive ‘Grand Cru’ label, among them the supreme Montrachet, Chambertin and Clos Vougeot.

Burgundy reds, from the pinot noir grape, pair superlatively with Boeuf Bourguignon or pheasant, while a Chablis or other white is delightful with everything from shrimp to goat cheese.

The Chablis, derived from the famous village of the same name, makes a brisk dry, white, with refreshing acidity. The Chardonnay grapes here grow in limestone rich with fossil remains.

The world famous Beaujolais, with its fruity flavor from the Gamay grape grown in granitic limestone, can accompany lamb or grilled chicken.

In Volnay, the delicious eponymous red has been made for eight centuries. On a sliver less than 600 acres are grown Pinot Noir that produce 1.3 million bottles of this elegant wine with its aroma of raspberry and violets.

For the lover of the finest whites, turn to nearby Meursault with it’s Premier Cru label. Chardonnay, grown on just over 1,000 acres of limestone and marl, form the basis for 2.5 million bottles of a dry white that can be aged from 3 to 15 years. With its aroma of almond and apples, pair with a fish in white sauce.

But the ‘pièce de resistance’ is the red Pommard, with its tannic, robust flavor, making a comeback after some decades of decline. Here 1.8 million bottles, with aromas of black cherry and black currant, are produced from a mere 780 acres of Pinot Noir grown in limestone and red clay. Excellent for aging from 5 to 15 years, it pairs well with game venison or roast red meat, with a side of Livarot cheese.

Whatever your preference, you can never go wrong with a Burgundy.

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Bordeaux. The word itself says ‘wine’ to millions around the world. Many historians of the subject assure us that wine has been produced in Bordeaux since the first century AD. And given the known ability for the great Bordeaux to age gracefully, one can believe it.

Located in the south west of France around the city of Bordeaux, near the Atlantic coast, the region covers 10,725 square kilometers, containing 284,000 acres of vineyards. It is home to thousands of Châteaux, the vineyard and other facilities for winemaking.

Winters are short and the climate temperate with hot summers, long falls and high humidity thanks to its location near the estuary of three rivers the Gironde, Garonne and Dordogne.

The vineyards cover five distinct regions and 57 appellations. In France, the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC), refers to a specifically defined and regulated region, which controls how wines may be produced, labeled and sold.

In the Medoc region, a 50-mile strip between the Atlantic ocean and the Gironde estuary, vines grow on gravelly plateaus, called croupes, which sit atop heavy clay and limestone. Cabernet Sauvignon finds a home here. Some wines originating here contain as much as 40 percent Merlot. Its 10,500 acres produces on the order of 36 million bottles annually from 400 vineyards.

The Graves region gets its name from the pebbles in the soil, excellent for drainage and very healthy for the vines. It covers 12,844 acres west of the Garonne River and produces a stellar garnet-colored red, with slightly more Merlot than Cabernet. The whites produced there are dry, heavy on Semillon with a moderate amount of Sauvignon Blanc.

The best wines of the region are distinguished by the name Pessac-Leognan, north of the Graves, with other Châteaux sometimes referred to as crus bourgeois.
 
South of Graves lies the Sauternes (and the subset Barsac) region with a warmer, drier climate and limestone rich soil. The whites labeled Sauternes produced from Semillon are sweet, a quality derived from the infiltration of a fungus called Botrytis cinerea.

Famous for the sweet, dessert wines such as Yquem, Raymond-Lafon and Rieussec, over 4.5 million bottles are produced on 4,500 acres.

Saint-Emillon, the oldest area in Bordeaux, lies east of the Gironde, where the grapes are largely Merlot. The soil type ranges from limestone gravel to sandy, both providing excellent drainage. The 13,000 acres concentrate primarily on high-quality reds, to the tune of 36 million bottles. That soil, and loving production of its superior grapes produces the most robust, fast maturing reds.

Lastly, is Pomeral with a mere 1,900 acres producing scarce but superior reds from sandy soil atop a clay substrate infiltrated with iron. The vineyards grow Merlot and a type of Cabernet Franc called bouchet. Among other excellent products, here is produced the Château Pétrus, with 95% Merlot.

Many Bordeaux reds have an aging potential of 5-15 years, with some reaching to 20-50 years. But you will find a challenge to wait that long for one of these excellent wines!
 

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Winemakers in Alsace have been active since the Roman conquest.

The Alsatians themselves are a mixed French-Germanic lot, with many of the older inhabitants still speaking Alsatian, a Germanic dialect, at home. Despite living in the smallest winemaking region in France, these proud people rightfully boast of their centuries old winemaking traditions.

Six thousand wine growers live in a long sliver of land — 190km (118 mi) by 50km (31mi) near the German border, bordered on the West by the Vosages and the East by the Rhine. Strasbourg alone is home to over 450,000 of the areas 1.8 million residents.

Theirs is a difficult endeavor, wrestling with hot summers and cold winters that see frequent snowfall. Soil in the region is among the most diverse types of all France’s famous grape producing regions. From sand and granite to clay and marl, with a smattering even of volcanic soil, emerges some of the finest Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Gewürztraminer grapes, nestled on neatly laid out rows of hardy vines.

The juice of these grapes, grown on an area covering 37,000 acres, eventually fill 165 million bottles, some 20 percent of France’s annual wine output. Ninety percent is dedicated to making the region’s world famous whites, whose names betray their German influence.

Along with the more well-known Riesling and Gewürztraminer, which respectively comprise 23 percent and 18 percent of Alsace’s unique grapes, there are Tokay and Sylvaner.

Tokay is a delightful full-bodied white made solely from Pinot Gris. On a mere 3,200 acres of clay-limestone is produced 22 million bottles of this liquid treat with aromas of wood and spice. It goes perfectly with Quiche Lorraine, but can even substitute for a red when serving a red meat dish.

Sylvaner, originally from Austria, has been made in Alsace for over two hundred years. Or, as the Alsatians would say ‘only’ two centuries. It forms the starting point of a fruity, dry white that’s a perfect pairing for fish or pork. Though Alsatians don’t object to serving it with nothing more than fresh sauerkraut.

On only 3,000 acres, 12 percent of the Alsace vineyards’ area, 20 million bottles are produced of this refreshing, light white that ages well up to five years.

For those who enjoy a fruity wine, the Pinot Blanc makes a dry white that hints of peaches or pears, which pairs perfectly with a Munster cheese. Some 7,000 acres of sandstone of all things provides the soil from which ultimately comes 33 million bottles.

Crémant d’Alsace, a sparkling white made the same way as Champagne, is a blend of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris or Pinot Noir. Its aroma of red fruits, apricots and almonds make a wonderful pairing with Langres cheese.

When investigating any Alsatian wine, be sure to look for the classification ‘Grand Crus’, a grade which distinguishes the best of the regions’ wines.

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