Right: Wine map of Washington

The 1960s saw the flowering of a new winemaking region in a very unexpected locale: Washington State, USA. Though near latitudes (46-47 degrees) that encompass two of the great French wine regions, Bordeaux (44.5 degrees) and Burgundy (47 degrees), Washington’s vineyards also experience cold and sometimes rainy falls and winters. Less than ideal conditions for grapes at the end of their ripening season.

But because of their far north latitude, those vineyards benefit from up to two more hours of sunlight per day (17.4 hours) during the growing season than does Northern California. And, fortunately, east of the Cascade mountains rainfall is modest, averaging less than 10 inches per year. Low precipitation and humidity help minimize mildew and diseases ruinous to vines and their fruit.

The climate in Washington’s wine-grape growing sub-regions varies substantially from the mild Puget Sound to the scorching Tri-Cities where summertime temperatures often hover above 100F (23.5C) The former, though, doesn’t enjoy the ‘rain shadow’ effect created by the Cascades and only 1% of the state’s output is achieved there.

The remaining 99% east of the Cascades grows in seven of the state’s eight official appellations, among which are Yakima, Walla Walla and the Columbia Gorge.

First planted in 1825 by French, German and Italian immigrants the region languished for over a century and a half. But commercial production ramped up in the mid-1980s to the point that its production is now second only to California’s, harvesting 116,760 tons on over 30,000 acres. Combined, Washington’s wineries produce 16.5 million gallons per year.

The growers here had to develop new techniques to support the fruit in the near-desert conditions of eastern Washington. And adapt they did, with eye-dropper irrigation which gives the vines just enough water to stay healthy, but not enough to pump up the grapes and dilute their flavor. Fortunately, the Snake, Columbia and Yakima rivers provide ample water through an extensive natural aqueduct system.

Some winters their efforts are challenged when the Columbia Valley’s cold sends vines dormant. The growers respond by planting vines on their own roots rather rootstock, which allows it to produce a crop the following year.

They benefit from nature as well, though. Thanks to geologic developments in the Pasco Basin, large deposits of silt and sandy loam help produce the drainage essential to proper wine grape growing.

All the traditional varietals grow here, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Sangiovese reds. Whites also cover the bases with Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc in abundance. The whites in the region yield 30% more tonnage per acre than reds, with Riesling leading the pack at 6.2.

The Merlot produced in the Columbia Valley stands out, thanks to the more 50 degree temperature swing from the 90-degree days to the 40-45 degree nights. Those hot days ensure that grapes ripen slowly without producing excessive sugar, while the cool nights help produce abundant acidity.

Thanks to their creativity and hard work, the industry is now a $2.4 billion powerhouse employing more than 11,000 people at more than 360 wineries, up from a bare 19 in 1981. And it shows no signs of slowing down.

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Midway between Milan and Rome, Tuscany is bordered on the west by the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Apennines mountain range on the east.

First inhabited by the Etruscans, in the Middle Ages and continuing through the Renaissance, Tuscany developed into a center of the Arts and Learning under the control of the Medici clan. And no art was more developed here than that of winemaking. Even before the Etruscans migrated to the area, wild vines grew in abundances around Tuscany’s sun-drenched hills. Those early settlers developed those early grapes into the world-famous Sangiovese and Lambrusco.

Combined with these are the Cabernet Sauvignon, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo that go to make Montalcino, Scansano, Carmginano, along with the more well-known Chianti. Adding to the variety are plentiful Mammolo, Malvasia, Colorino, Raspirosso, Gamay, Moscatello and others. Not limited to reds, there are the delightful whites of Elba Island, Vermentino, Bolgheri and Val di Nievole.

Tuscany boasts four of Italy’s nine top-rated DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) classified zones. At only one shop in Tuscany the number of available labels has grown from 1,000 a few years ago to over 5,000 today. Small wonder Italy now vies with France for the world leader in wine production.

Produced by vineyards that range from the Castello di Fonterutoli owned by the same family since 1435 to ones founded only a few years ago, Tuscan wines are experiencing an all-time high in quality and popularity.

The importance of quality is nowhere more evident than at Rocca delle Maccie. Organic fertilization, careful pruning and hand harvesting, and the use of oak barriques for aging are just some of the practices instituted at this estate. An active member of a consortium of Chianti Classico growers, they produce one of the best selling wines in Italy.

As another example, the Fassati Nobile di Montepulciano, made from a blend of Prugnolo Gentile (a clone of Sangiovese Grosso), Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo, was praised as far back as the 18th century by Voltaire.

Wines produced here range from the simple Chiantis to the complex super Tuscan reds, with fruity aromas. Beginning with the change in vineyards and viticultural methods of the 1970s the 1996-on vintages have entered world class.

The ’super Tuscans’ became popular as more international style reds began to be produced from Bordeaux-style blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot along with the Sangiovese. Labeled ‘table wine’ to circumvent counter-productive government regulations, they are now anything but. Among these outstanding new reds are the Brusco dei Barbi, celebrated among connoisseurs.

Not to be outdone by makers of red, the Bolgheri Vermentino is a delightful, fruity white which pairs perfectly with shrimp. And once the province of France only, the Cabreo Chardonnay competes on equal footing.

The Renaissance lives on in Tuscany.

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Right: Wine map of the U.S.

In a state that produces 90% of all US wine, the vineyards of Sonoma and Napa in Northern California are justly famous. But they have no monopoly on quality, the wines from the newer Southern California wineries are an equal match for any of their northern sisters.

Most Southern California wine is produced in one of two areas: the wineries near Santa Barbara or those near San Diego, 100 miles north and south of Los Angeles respectively.

Each area has participated actively in the growth of the California wine industry which now ships over 450 million gallons a year to the US and elsewhere.

SANTA BARBARA

The east-west orientation of the coastal mountains forms valleys that open directly onto the Pacific Ocean. This produces a flow of fog and breezes that produce the conditions for growing world class varietals and wines.

Home to several micro-climates near the Pacific Coast and the Pala Mesa Mountains, the area enjoys moderate temperatures throughout the growing season, with warm days and cool nights. The environment provides favorable conditions for producing grapes with optimal sugar and acid levels.

The fifty mile stretch from Point Conception to Rincon form the longest east-west arrow of shoreline from Alaska down to Cape Horn. Here lie vines that grow on everything from wind-swept hillsides to rolling valleys where summer temperatures often hover around 100F (38C).

The climate allows working the vineyards year round, with pruning and weeding in winter, new planting in springtime, canopy management in summer and harvest in the fall.

The area mirrors to a large extent the Rhône Valley area of France and vintners have responded accordingly. One hillside vineyard resides 1,000 feet above sea level with northern exposure, making it ideal for the Rhône varietals grown here.

There is Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Sangiovese and Syrah — a cornucopia of European grapes. The wide variety is made possible by the numerous micro-climates of the region with occasional snow on some of the mountains where cool-climate Chardonnay does well and the heat soaking Syrah in others.

And never ones to take the easy path, growers even took on the notoriously difficult Pinot Noir to produce a wine luscious with strawberry and herbal tones.

Twenty-five years ago there were almost no vineyards in the area, but today wine is a $100 million business in the county, which include the Santa Ynez and Santa Maria valleys. These two areas alone grew to 8,000 acres under cultivation in just the twenty years between 1975 and 1995. In the five years following that 8,000 jumped to 18,000. Today there are over 21,000 acres of vineyards, over half of the grapes being shipped to winemakers outside the county.

TEMECULA

The friendly rivalry between Northern and Southern California is mirrored in the wine business. A young upstart, most of the southern vineyards didn’t exist twenty years ago. The first Temecula wines were produced in 1971.

The 1,400-foot Temecula plateau is nestled 22 miles from the Pacific Ocean between peaks of the Coastal Mountain range. The cool afternoon breeze helps keep the smog away and the unique micro-climate also enjoys a higher solar intensity than Napa Valley.

Temecula’s vineyards are irrigated from enormous underground aquifers that feed soils high in decomposed granite, which helps drainage and to keep it free of Phylloxera — an invasive insect that devastated entire European wine regions in centuries past and remains a concern today.

Not far away is the highest vineyard in California, Shadow Mountain, growing Cabernet Sauvignon in the mountains above San Diego at an elevation of 4,400 feet above sea level.

Everything grows here from Chardonnay and white Rhône to Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet and the Italian Nebbiolo harvested as late as November. The result is a wonderfully fresh fruit character without the woodiness common to other California regions.

The roots of Southern California winemaking go back almost 200 years when the padres of Mission San Juan Capistrano produced the first vintages. But today business is better than ever, with 1,800 acres in commercial vineyards, thanks to the partnership of sophisticated oenologists and passionate vintners.

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Right: Wine map of France

In the triangle formed near the Mediterranean coast by Nice in the east, Marseille in the west and Avignon to the northwest, lies the region of Provence.

Provence was the first region in France to turn to winemaking some 2,600 years ago. Today some 500 wineries tend vineyards on 68,000 acres — tiny by comparison to the nearly ten times larger 6.7 million acres of Languedoc-Roussillon.

Here the siliceous and limestone soils cooperate with mild winters and hot summers to grow Grenache and Syrah, as well as Ugni Blanc, Rolle and Clairette, among others.

Long considered a producer of mediocre wine, the region has been experiencing a renaissance on the last few decades. Though regulations have caused many do forgo obtaining the vaunted AOC label (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, an administrative designation that regulates wine production), the VDQS (Vin de Qualité Supérieur, a step below AOC) wines are in taste second to none.

A large variety of grapes are used in Provence, but the rosé continues to be a specialty of the region, with 75 percent of the total production of 140 million bottles, forty-five percent of total French rosé output. Made from Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and others its fruity zest is dry.

The Bandol and Bellet produced here are treasured by connoisseurs of great wine.

Bandol vines grow on the hills between La Ciotat and Toulon, facing the Mediterranean Sea. The vineyards here, first planted by Romans 2,500 years ago, are among the oldest in France. The nearby port of Marseille has served as a staging point for exporting Bandol to India and Brazil for two centuries.

The spicy, red Mourvèdre grown here is the starting point for one of the best full-bodied Provence reds available. But coming from only 2,700 acres and leading to only 5 million bottles it can be difficult to find.

Bellet, just west of Nice, is one of the smallest appellations in France. The mere 80 acres of siliceous and chalky hills on which grow Rolle and Chardonnay are so steep they can only be worked by hand.

But those hands produce 80,000 bottles of some of the best aromatic whites, fresh rosés, and delicate reds available. And the local Braquet forms a red that can age up to 10 years. If you can find them, be sure to pay attention to the honey and banana overtones of the white, especially good with shellfish and Banon cheese.

For a real treat, try to visit the Château Sainte Roseline, under cultivation for seven centuries. On less than 300 acres these master vintners grow 11 varieties of grape including Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cabernet Sauvignon to make red, and include Cinsault and Tibouren for the famous rosé, and Rolle and Sémillon to make whites.

Enjoy!

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Right: Wine map of Italy

One of three main Italian winemaking regions, Piedmont lies at the confluence of the Tanaro and Borbera rivers, 45km (28 mi) southeast of Turin in northwest Italy. Moderately remote in this crowded modern world, it’s braced by the Alps to the north and the Apennines to the south.

Bordered by the French and Swiss Alps, Piedmont is far from the Mediterranean that produces such fine wines. Yet, here the hot summer climate encourages Nebbiolo, a late ripener that ages wonderfully, producing wine high in tannin, with perfect acidity and aromas of rose, mint and licorice. Spicy fruit flavors of cherries with hints of violets show the reason Italy vies with France for the top wine producer in Europe.

The Piedmont region divides into two major areas, Alba in the southwest, home to Barbera, Barbaresco and Dolcetto, and Asti to the southeast.

Piedmont is also home to the traditional Barolo, where skins are soaked for twenty days both during and after fermentation. This helps highlight tannins in the wine that lending it an austere quality in its youth, but also able to evolve over time.

Aging, usually for a minimum of four years, is carried out in traditional old oak barrels, allowing the acidity and tannin to show through more aggressively. The robust red Barolo improves with aging, in a technique that goes back centuries. Nearby Barbera has a beautiful deep color and acidity, but is lighter in tannins.

Barbera should not be confused with the Barbaresco, similar to Barolo only 10 miles distant. The latter are made with 100 percent Nebbiolo and have a slightly lower alcohol content and require less aging.

But youth has come to the area in another way too. Newer winemaking techniques use new oak barrels used to add a hint of vanilla to counter-balance a natural tendency toward tannin and acidity.

Dolcetto, the other major wine of the Alba region has less acid than Barbera, but more tannins and a bit more spice.

Asti, by contrast to these reds, produces excellent, light sparkling whites made from the Moscato, rich in floral and peach aromas. Ironically, the wine named Moscati d’Asti is a non-sparkling version.

All these wines have been perfected over a period of three thousand years, centuries longer than the oldest French wines. Considering Italy’s small size, at three-quarters the area of California, its production of 8 billion bottles per year is even more astounding. Though only seventh in production, Piedmont stands first in quality.

Much of the great red of Piedmont forms an upper price barrier for many, with bottles going for $60 or more. But there are still good Piedmont products to be found for less.

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Right: Wine map of France

The Loire Valley, near Nantes in western France, is one of the most beautiful winemaking areas in Europe. A narrow, but wide region following the Loire river, it meanders from Auvergne and the Massif Central mountains to the Atlantic coast.

Vines producing wine grapes existed here as far back as the Roman invasion into the Loire Valley. Historians assert that as long ago as 380 AD reds were made in the surrounding hills and whites were fermented on the river banks.

The climate varies considerably over this wide region, with mild Atlantic weather winter and summer in the west, and cold winters and warm summers in the interior area.

In contrast to Bordeaux where 75% of the production is red, in the Loire three quarters goes to the creation of whites, with the main grapes being Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon. Most of the remaining quarter of red is produced from Cabernet Franc, with some Gamay and Pinot Noir.

Total production reaches 400 million bottles, the end product of grapes grown in clay-limestone, siliceous and chalky soils. Types range from dry whites to sweet, and rosé to fruity reds.

In the eastern part of the valley, around Pouilly and Sancerre, most of the grapes used for winemaking are Sauvignon Blanc. These go into making the delicious dry, white Pouilly-Fumé. The other bank around Sancerre produces the robust, dry eponymous white.

Further west in the province of Touraine, one finds predominantly Chenin Blanc, which forms the starting point of the fruity Montlouis. Also made here are the glorious red Loire wines, Bourgueil and Chinon, mostly from Cabernet Franc.

And on the right bank of the Loire river, close to Tours don’t miss out on a lovely dry Vouvray. The product of Chenin Blanc grown in clay infested limestone and chalk, 13 million bottles are produced in the area on almost 5,000 acres.

Touraine’s neighbor to the west, Anjou-Saumur, also produces a delectable white from Chenin Blanc, famed for its smooth quality. Winemakers cluster around Angers as they have since the 6th century. Famous for the Rosé d’Anjou, it’s reported to have been enjoyed by King Henry II of England. But the commoner can also enjoy the oak aged whites. With fifty-five million bottles produced from land covering 22,000 acres, there’s no fear of running out.

Coteaux du Layon is the widest wine area of the Anjou region lying along the Layon river where the vines are protected by the hills. Best known for a sweet wine purported to be from a recipe 15 centuries old. Harvest here is late, where the growers leave the grapes on the vines until they begin to over-ripen. Nearly 7 million bottles are produced from 4,450 acres.

Last, but certainly far from least, we finish our tour with the well-known Muscadet, which sits at the far west of the Loire Valley. Here is produced a pale white, lovely in its dry, astringent taste. Best drunk when fresh and young, by connoisseurs of any age. From its 31,000 acres of granite soil rises vines which produce grapes that fill nearly 100 million bottles, so take your time.

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Languedoc-Roussillon, the largest wine producing region in the world, lies on the border of the Mediterranean sea, between the Rhone delta and Spain.

Fifty thousand vine growers (out of a population of 2.4 million) spread over an area of 27,400 square kilometers (10,500 square miles) swelter in the intense summers for the sake of producing over 2 billion bottles of wine.

The mild winters and hot summers cooperate with diverse soil types ranging from limestone and sandstone to granite pebbles to host Carignan, Grenache, Merlot and other reds. Not to be left behind the Roussane, Viognier, Chardonnay and other whites add to provide ample work for the 400 cooperatives and 2,800 private wineries in a region from Muscat in the east to Banyuls in the southwest.

Originally the work of Greeks who began cultivation around the 6th century BC, after the Roman conquest viticulture developed quickly, then continued under the Visigoths in the 5th century. As the monasteries of the 9th century grew, so did the hillside vineyards, where the valleys were reserved for grains. The 19th century saw the plains conversion to vineyards as well. Today, viticulture is concentrated in the plains of Aude, Herault and Gard. These three regions produce nearly one-half of France’s total grape output.

For many years, the area saw the production of a great many mediocre wines, but a renaissance of sorts in the last few decades has led to the resurgence of extraordinary Syrah. Opaque, purple-colored, with aromas of sweet blackberry spiced by black pepper and cassis.

Over the past 10 years the Vin de Pays d’Oc has also been helping to improve the area’s reputation, with its unique regional characteristics, such as the earthy Minervois and Corbières.

Unlike other winegrowing regions, where individual Châteaux dominate, most here are produced by cooperatives that purchase grapes from local growers. These include the delicious Vin Doux Naturel made from Muscat or Grenache. The process involves adding grape spirit which halts fermentation, preserving sweetness and raising alcohol levels to 15-16 percent. The Muscat de Frontignan or Banyuls make for delightful dessert wines that can compete with a Port for aging potential.

Whites too have been making a comeback with the Chardonnay and the Marsanne grown in Argelier, 30km (18.6 mi) west of Beziers. Here the grapes grown in chalky soil are harvested early, then allowed only a few hours skin contact prior to pressing. The result is a fresh, dry white with aromas of apple and oak.

For those who cannot be torn from red, there’s the spicy and full-bodied Corbières made from Grenache and Carignan grown in limestone, marl and sandstone. With over 70 million bottles capable of aging 3-7 years there’s little danger of running out.

Moving from the hills of Corbières to the Pyrenees one lands in Roussillon, the sunniest region of France. More similar to Spain than other areas, the Carignan dominates to produce reds that are spicy and medium body, with hints of licorice.

Look for new developments from this large and ancient area of French winemaking.
 

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The Rhone Valley, looks very much like a miniature Italy as it stretches 200km (125 mi) from south of Lyon to just south of Avignon. Along this course the climate varies from the Rhone’s cold winters and warm summers to the classic Mediterranean where winters are mild and summers hot.

The relatively more constant sun combines with granitic soil in the north, limestone in the south to produce Grenache, Syrah and Carignan used in red wines, and Clairette, Ugni Blanc and Grenache Blanc for whites.

The Grenache dominates with 55 percent of the total red-making grape, the Clairette making up 35 percent of white. Combined 8-10 thousand winemakers, spread over an enormous 170,000 acres, produce 450 million bottles, 75 percent of which is devoted to the northern full-bodied of Co´te Ro´tie and the southern fruity reds of Chauteauneuf du Pape.

One village in particular, Chartreuse de Valbonne, enjoys a very different climate from that of the surrounding Mediterranean. Enfolded by forest atop horseshoe-shaped hills, there are numberless terraces composed of stony chalk and limestone. Some barrels of the area date back to the 13th century. Here are made plump Grenache Noir, spicy Syrah and Viognier Plump with aromas of violet and acacia honey.

Considered among the best of the Co´tes du Rho´ne villages are the distinctive Cairanne and Rasteau. Rasteau’s tannic Domaine du Trapadis will be preferred by those seeking a more zesty wine, while Cairanne’s softer Domaine Catherine Le Goeuil “made with techniques handed down from the Middle Ages” is appreciated by the easy-going.

From the 11,000 acres of the Co´tes du Rho´ne villages clay and stony limestone earth rise Grenache and Syrah grapes that produce 19 million bottles of medium body fruity reds.

The history of Gigondas wine traces back to the Romans, where good advantage is taken of the Mediterranean weather and the red clay soil to produce an aromatic alternative to the more expensive Chauteauneuf du Pape. On 3,000 acres vintners produce the Grenache, Syrah and Mourvaudre that go to make 5.5 million bottles.

For those whose tongue needs a little shock of pleasure seek out the Vignobles Darriaud’s Grenache Syrah, a full-bodied red with earthy and plummy aromas. Chocolate tones combine with a peppery finish, especially after aging for 3-5 years.

Best for last, the slope of Chauteauneuf du Pape, lying between Orange and Avignon, was once the summer home of many Popes. The wine is thick, powerful and a richly colored red made from Grenache, Syrah, Clairette and ten other varieties. On these 7,600 acres of quartz and sandy red clay grow the vines that produce 13 million bottles that can age up to 20 years with aromas of red fruits, cinnamon and vanilla.

But, who among us could wait that long?

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Chianti — the name says ‘wine’.  A mere 300 square km (115 square mi), in the center of Tuscany between Siena and Florence, Chianti overlooks the Elsa Valley. Hilly, the terrain varies from green forests to stony meadowland. The rows of wine grape vines share the land with olive groves and the occasional oak tree.

The Phoenicians introduced winemaking to the area and it became known as ‘Oenotria’, the ‘land of wine’. The sun and mountain air attracted Greeks, Etruscans and Romans who in their turns introduced new vine species and growing techniques. Italy during the decades after the turn of the millennium was known for having the largest harvests and the finest vintages in the Mediterranean.

But beginning in the 18th century, the perceived quality of Chianti wines dipped to a low. In the 1880s, phylloxera —an insect that feeds on the roots and leaves of vines— destroyed many of Europe’s vineyards. But, the vintners of Italy struggled heroically to recover from the loss of indigenous varieties.

In 1968, land in Chianti was, as the saying goes, ‘dirt cheap’. The situation has come full circle. Visionaries took advantage of the low land values and have rebuilt the vineyards and the wine into product that rivals the best in the world.

The Continental climate in Chianti favors grape production with stable, consistent, moderate weather. The stony and dry soil infused with limestone rock provides ample light and warmth to the vines. Irrigation is allowed only in emergencies so vines naturally delve deep to acquire water and nutrients.

The eight sub-regions, Chianti Classico, Colli Arentini, Colli Fiorentini, Colli Senesi, Colli Pisane, Montalbano, Rufina and Montispertoli, all have their own distinctive techniques and products. Like the French AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôllée) designation, Italy has its own classification methods for ensuring quality product: DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) which specifies requirements for growing and winemaking.

Today, Italy grows more than 100 official varieties of vitis vinifera, the vine species that forms the starting point of 99 percent of the world’s wines. The noble reds of Chianti have become known throughout Europe as fine wines, of which there’s no better expression than the Classico.

Out of a total of 10,000 hectares (~24,700 acres), two-thirds are registered for the production DOCG Chianti Classico, produced by using at least 80 percent of Sangiovese.

Varieties other than the Classico include Sangiovese blended with Canaiolo (up to 20 percent) and Colorino. For whites, a Trebbiano or Malvasia are used. Yields are limited by law to nine tons/hectare in an effort to keep quality high.

There are no legal requirements, though, dictating aging in oak, but many vintners prefer it for their Riserva wines with 12% alcohol content by volume.

The Chianti red is a deep ruby, which tends to pomegranate when aged. The flavor is dry, slightly tannic, with an intense aroma, sometimes hinting of violet.

As Italian vintners, in traditional style, continue to work around restrictive regulations, the Chianti’s world reputation increases apace.

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Champagne is not just a sparkling wine, but the region from which the famous drink derives its name. The climate of the area is cooler than that of the southern French vineyards, making for a shorter growing season.

Almost a hundred miles (144km) northeast of Paris near the Belgian border, it’s usually divided into three parts — the Côte des Blancs, the Vallée de la Marne and Montagne de Reims, though there are other zones.

Of the region’s 75,000 acres of vineyards, the largest portion and the greatest vineyards are planted in the département of the Marne.

The vines there sit comfortably in chalky soils, providing excellent natural moisture regulation with good drainage. The chalk reflects ample sunshine and heat upward to the grape and within to the roots. The thin layer of arable topsoil receives the needed addition of fertilizer by the regions world-class vintners, some of whom only work the land part-time.

The annual temperature hovers slightly above the minimum required to ripen grapes (50°F/10°C), where the best vineyards reside high enough to be clear of frost (above 90m/295ft), but low enough (below 210m/689ft) to be sheltered from extreme heat.

One premium example is the vineyards of Montagne de Reims, a forested plateau south of Reims. Blessed with a deep bed of crustaceous chalk beneath a thin layer of topsoil, the highly ranked Grand and Premier Cru are found in these two areas, where grows primarily Pinot Noir.

Among the northernmost vineyards, the unique micro-climate in Montagne is well suited for producing this variety, which goes into producing some of the world’s best champagne.

Along both banks of the River Marne lies the Vallée de la Marne, with predominantly south-facing, lower-lying vineyards, which produces largely Pinot Meunier. And just over 13 miles (21km) south of Epernay juts a ridge in Côte des Blancs where the chalk subsoil yields a glorious Chardonnay.

A newcomer to Champagne is Côte de Sézanne. Planted in the 1960’s almost exclusively with Chardonnay, its southern location allows the grapes to ripen better than many of the other zones.

In Champagne’s most southerly zone, we reach The Aube located about 70 miles (112km) south of Epernay, where the climate experiences greater temperature extremes. Less well-known, much of its output adds to numerous blends of the major champagne houses.

The theory of producing a great champagne is to blend together the best qualities from each of the best grapes grown in all these areas. The large houses store millions of gallons of wine from various vineyards for blending purposes. The blends are produced primarily from three varieties.

Pinot Meunier remains the dominant variety in Champagne, where it’s exclusively grown (on nearly 40% of the total acreage) and makes up the base for all but the most exclusive champagnes. Pinot Noir comes in a close second at about 35% of the total acreage. It provides much of the longevity of champagne. Chardonnay accounts for the remaining 25% and adds lightness.

Rightly acclaimed as one of the most important historical regions, Champagne’s quality remains undiminished in the modern world as well.

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Most of Canada’s winemaking is associated with British Columbia, and justly so. In the last 20 years the wines of British Columbia have become world-class competitors. But wine is almost made in all of Canada’s provinces, often under much more difficult conditions. And many of these small family businesses are beginning to produce award winning vintages.

Canada extends 7,800km (4,875mi) from the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean, from Newfoundland to Vancouver Island off the west coast of British Columbia.

But despite the country’s reputation for northern latitudes and cold winters, some parts actually lie further south than the famous Burgundy region of France. The Ontario region, for example lies between the 41st and 52nd latitudes, putting them at the parallel as Bordeaux, France and California’s Napa Valley.

The enormous land mass, oceans and numerous fresh water lakes and tall mountains give Canada a wide variety of micro-climates that the growers take good advantage of in producing wine grapes. Most grown are some variety of vinifera, long thought not to thrive so far north. Thanks to old traditions combined with modern science, they do well even in Quebec.

One of the newest wineries is the Bosc family’s Chateau des Charmes, founded in 1978 in the Niagara Peninsula where the temperate climate provides up to 190 frost free growing days per year.

Ideally located on the south of Lake Ontario at 44 degrees latitude, this enormous Chateau is headquarters to vineyards that produce an excellent Chardonnay, barrel fermented and aged in French oak barrels. The result is a full-bodied buttery wine with flavors of tropical fruit and melon that pairs well with poultry or pasta.

The Cabernet Sauvignon is another favorite with a deep ruby color and the bouquet of cassis and bell pepper. Full-bodied and an excellent match for prime rib, it can age for 5-10 years.

Elsewhere in Niagara is Coyote’s Run which opened its doors in May, 2004. In heavy limestone clay and taking advantage of the warm breezes off the water, the 3C (5.4F) higher average temperature here allows the harvest to occur 1-2 weeks earlier than most other vineyards in the area.

The dark brown clay common to the area produces a grape distinctly different from that of the more fruity and perfumed from the red clay. Look for this small entrepreneur to grow in the coming years.

Even Montreal is home to some of Quebec’s wineries, located on the western section of the glacial plain. Here a medium-body red is produced from a blend of Cabernet Severnyi, Frontenac and Landot. Full of ripe black fruit flavors with hints of oak, licorice and vanilla, it is aged in American oak.

Not to be ignored, tiny Prince Edward Island even gets into the act where the harsh climate requires that some grape varieties be grown only in greenhouses. Seyval Blanc, Marechal, Ortega and others produce a nicely acid balanced Rossignol wine.

Nova Scotia too hosts 22 grape growers where French hybrids Maréchal Foch, Baco Noir, and DeChaunac are grown, though icewine remains the specialty.

There are many others: Alberta. Sunshine ranges from 1,900 hours in the north to 2,300 hours in the south where the Rockies produce warm, dry Chinook winds. One Chinook raised the temperature from -19C (-2.2F) to 3.3C (38F) in a single hour. Saskatchewan in the heart of North America, bordered on the south by Montana and North Dakota. Manitoba, once a flood plain, now seeing cold winters and sunny summers averaging 25C (77F).

All these and more give evidence of Canada’s unquenchable desire to grow the winemaking business into one which will rightfully take its place on the world stage.

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Nowhere in France is the terroir concept —a group of vineyards (or vines) from the same region that share similar soil and climate— more dearly held than Burgundy.

Located in central east France, the region’s 1.6 million inhabitants endure cold Continental winters, but enjoy warm summers.

A region covering 31,500 square kilometers (over 12,000 square miles), Burgundy (Bourgogne) is rich in world and winemaking history. In this 360 km (225 mi) strip stretching 100km (60 mi) south of Paris, down from south of Dijon to north of Rhoône, can be found 99 different wine appellations.

Here over 180 million bottles of some of the world’s finest wines are made —  from the full-bodied reds Pommard and Corton to the medium Beaune — to the world class whites, the dry Chablis or Chassagne Montrachet.

As a consequence of the French revolution, the monastaries’ vineyards were confiscated, resulting in fragmentation into the system of small plots that prevails to this day.

Six hundred of the vineyards there merit the appellation ‘Premier Cru’, which designates the finest quality wine. Only 33 can boast the even more exclusive ‘Grand Cru’ label, among them the supreme Montrachet, Chambertin and Clos Vougeot.

Burgundy reds, from the pinot noir grape, pair superlatively with Boeuf Bourguignon or pheasant, while a Chablis or other white is delightful with everything from shrimp to goat cheese.

The Chablis, derived from the famous village of the same name, makes a brisk dry, white, with refreshing acidity. The Chardonnay grapes here grow in limestone rich with fossil remains.

The world famous Beaujolais, with its fruity flavor from the Gamay grape grown in granitic limestone, can accompany lamb or grilled chicken.

In Volnay, the delicious eponymous red has been made for eight centuries. On a sliver less than 600 acres are grown Pinot Noir that produce 1.3 million bottles of this elegant wine with its aroma of raspberry and violets.

For the lover of the finest whites, turn to nearby Meursault with it’s Premier Cru label. Chardonnay, grown on just over 1,000 acres of limestone and marl, form the basis for 2.5 million bottles of a dry white that can be aged from 3 to 15 years. With its aroma of almond and apples, pair with a fish in white sauce.

But the ‘pièce de resistance’ is the red Pommard, with its tannic, robust flavor, making a comeback after some decades of decline. Here 1.8 million bottles, with aromas of black cherry and black currant, are produced from a mere 780 acres of Pinot Noir grown in limestone and red clay. Excellent for aging from 5 to 15 years, it pairs well with game venison or roast red meat, with a side of Livarot cheese.

Whatever your preference, you can never go wrong with a Burgundy.

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Bordeaux. The word itself says ‘wine’ to millions around the world. Many historians of the subject assure us that wine has been produced in Bordeaux since the first century AD. And given the known ability for the great Bordeaux to age gracefully, one can believe it.

Located in the south west of France around the city of Bordeaux, near the Atlantic coast, the region covers 10,725 square kilometers, containing 284,000 acres of vineyards. It is home to thousands of Châteaux, the vineyard and other facilities for winemaking.

Winters are short and the climate temperate with hot summers, long falls and high humidity thanks to its location near the estuary of three rivers the Gironde, Garonne and Dordogne.

The vineyards cover five distinct regions and 57 appellations. In France, the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC), refers to a specifically defined and regulated region, which controls how wines may be produced, labeled and sold.

In the Medoc region, a 50-mile strip between the Atlantic ocean and the Gironde estuary, vines grow on gravelly plateaus, called croupes, which sit atop heavy clay and limestone. Cabernet Sauvignon finds a home here. Some wines originating here contain as much as 40 percent Merlot. Its 10,500 acres produces on the order of 36 million bottles annually from 400 vineyards.

The Graves region gets its name from the pebbles in the soil, excellent for drainage and very healthy for the vines. It covers 12,844 acres west of the Garonne River and produces a stellar garnet-colored red, with slightly more Merlot than Cabernet. The whites produced there are dry, heavy on Semillon with a moderate amount of Sauvignon Blanc.

The best wines of the region are distinguished by the name Pessac-Leognan, north of the Graves, with other Châteaux sometimes referred to as crus bourgeois.
 
South of Graves lies the Sauternes (and the subset Barsac) region with a warmer, drier climate and limestone rich soil. The whites labeled Sauternes produced from Semillon are sweet, a quality derived from the infiltration of a fungus called Botrytis cinerea.

Famous for the sweet, dessert wines such as Yquem, Raymond-Lafon and Rieussec, over 4.5 million bottles are produced on 4,500 acres.

Saint-Emillon, the oldest area in Bordeaux, lies east of the Gironde, where the grapes are largely Merlot. The soil type ranges from limestone gravel to sandy, both providing excellent drainage. The 13,000 acres concentrate primarily on high-quality reds, to the tune of 36 million bottles. That soil, and loving production of its superior grapes produces the most robust, fast maturing reds.

Lastly, is Pomeral with a mere 1,900 acres producing scarce but superior reds from sandy soil atop a clay substrate infiltrated with iron. The vineyards grow Merlot and a type of Cabernet Franc called bouchet. Among other excellent products, here is produced the Château Pétrus, with 95% Merlot.

Many Bordeaux reds have an aging potential of 5-15 years, with some reaching to 20-50 years. But you will find a challenge to wait that long for one of these excellent wines!
 

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The winemaking tradition in sunny Sicily dates back as far as four thousand years. Over those millennia the Sicilians, named for the settlers who introduced agriculture there, have raised wine grape growing to the level of the Italian Renaissance artist.

In the far west, nestled among the rugged Gibellina Mountains is their masterpiece: the Mazara Valley. Larger than Piedmont or Tuscany, the grapes here that ripen under the hot sun are often used to fortify the weaker wines made in northern Italy.

The heart of the region lies between Salemi and Marsala, the latter giving its name to the traditional hearty wine originating there. There, thanks to warm temperatures, hilly terrain, sea breezes and rich soil, conditions combine to rival the best found in California.

Gifted with such terroir, the country produces more wine per year than Australia and New Zealand combined. Merlot, Chardonnay and Sangiovese are grown, of course. But there are also indigenous varieties such as Insolia and Catarratto.

Of course, a major portion of that output is the dessert wine Marsala, actually originated by English merchant traders two centuries ago. In the past, scorned for its association with cooking wines, there are connoisseurs now that favor its complex flavors in the form of Marsala Vergine and Superiore Riserva. In some years, Sicily provided fully a third of Italy’s total production of this sweet nectar.

But far from one-trick magicians, the artisans in one of the world’s oldest winemaking regions also produce delicious whites made from a blend of Insolia, Damaschino and Chardonnay. And the reds, once scorned as overbearing, now count among their number such delights as Nero d’Avola. Sometimes compared to Syrah, they age well and sell for as much as sixty dollars a bottle in the finest restaurants in New York and London.

Such works of art come from techniques developed over centuries. The sophisticated vintners may prune the vines by as much as 35% to concentrate the flavor, then harvest the fruit at night to avoid the scorching Sicilian autumn sun. The grapes are then stored in cooled vats to avoid premature fermentation. From this is produced the high-reputation vino da taglio grape must.

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Right: Wine map of the U.S.

Among the AVA (American Viticultural Areas) in Oregon we count the Willamette Valley, Umpqua, Rogue and Illinois Valleys and parts of Walla Walla and the Columbia Gorge shared with Washington.

Making wine in Oregon continues to be a challenge, owing to it’s largely rainy climate, limited hours of sunshine, cooler temperatures and frequent frosts in the fall.

Owing to the large climate changes from year to year, vintage quality varies greatly. Some years produce a high-alcohol, below-average acidity fruit while others — owing to dry winters and wet springs — produce lower alcohol and varied flavor profiles. Still others see late season rain after intense summer heat, to produce concentrated flavors and smooth tannins.

The Oregon Pinot Noir stands out with its hard-earned, but well-deserved reputation. As far back as 1979 it has placed second or third in French Olympiad competition, against the powerhouse from Burgundy.

The Pinot Noir is fortunately an early-ripening grape, with the main production area being the Willamette Valley, just south of Portland.

For years known primarily for that Pinot Noir, Oregon’s wineries are branching out to new reds, while making better than ever whites. In good years the Pinot Noir makes smoky, earthy wines, but the Pinot Gris is quickly rising to compete favorably.

Others like the Cabernet Franc and Zinfandel grow only in the warmer Rogue Valley and Walla Walla, blessed with more sunshine.

Here also grows the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which are beginning to see the light thanks to the efforts of some of the risk-taking vintners who benefit from select warmer micro-climates.

In the southern areas, Zinfandel and Tempranillo are artfully managed. Even the vaunted Syrah is making a beginning, urged along by the region’s meticulous caretakers of the vine, who now have over 30 years of experience under their belts. From a small section on the south side of the Columbia River, has come the first major Syrah from the formerly unheralded area.

Experiments continue with Riesling and Gewürztraminer, with a bit of Sauvignon Blanc and even the little-known Muller-Thurgau. The Grenache, Lemberger, Sangiovese and even Nebbiolo are beginning to make an appearance.

With over 300 wineries and 500 vineyards covering over 13,000 acres the area has grown from its humble beginnings, when only 20 years ago there were only 47 wineries. It’s production is now fourth in the U.S., producing sales of over $200 million a year. Look for great things in the future.

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Right: Wine map of the U.S.

The terrain and climate of the wine areas of Northern California remind the visitor of nothing so much as rural France. But the scale is vastly smaller — Napa Valley is only 35 miles long and 5 miles wide, while Sonoma County covers 1,600 square miles along 60 miles of coastline — with only a few hundred wineries sited there. Farthest north is Mendocino County with 30 wineries of its own, whose 3,500 square miles of cool climate helps create Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Those wineries have had a hard struggle over the last two hundred years. Since Russian colonists planted vines in 1812, through the founding of the wine industry by Spanish Franciscans in 1823, up through Prohibition to today, vintners have made heroic efforts to produce wines that rival the best of France and Italy.

In the 1920s there were 256 wineries, but Prohibition reduced that to under 50. Fortunately, the region has recovered over the decades and is now thriving. In Sonoma County, roughly 150,000 tons of grapes are produced by 200 wineries, over half fewer than 20 years old, on a mere 49,000 acres.

The temperate climate, with moderate winters and warm to hot summers is perfect for growing a wide variety of native and imported wine grape species. The most common varieties are Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, with a healthy sprinkling of Merlot and Zinfandel.

From those grapes California wineries produced over 500 million gallons of wine in 2004 at a retail value of $15 billion, with the majority of that coming from Northern California. The total US production was 668 million gallons. The overall impact of the California wine industry on the state’s economy has been estimated as high as $45 billion.

Second only to Disneyland as a tourist attraction the Northern California wineries form part of a trade that attracts almost 15 million visitors per year.

No wonder when the area hosts the majority of California’s 96,500 acres of Chardonnay and almost 75 thousand acres of Cabernet Sauvignon to regularly produce award winning wines.

Whether one’s taste runs to the lower tannin, dark red Merlot with characteristics of black currant, or the spicy Syrah with characteristics of sweet blackberry and plum or the cherry and violet Pinot Noir, a lover of red will find something to suit from among California’s many offerings.

But those fond of white needn’t feel left out where the buttery Chardonnay or the delicate Riesling with hints of peaches and apricots compete favorably with those of France and Germany. And the California Pinot Grigio, light and dry, or the sweet, fruity Chenin Blanc is as crisp as those from Italy or France.

So for those looking for a European experience in a California setting, the Northern California wineries await with their sure to please offerings.

Enjoy!

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Right: Wine map of the U.S.

In the US, California is justly famous for its wines. So famous, in fact, that it comes as a surprise to some to find out that New York has long been a serious competitor in terms of quality.

Winemaking in the New York region goes back centuries. Ten thousand years ago Ice Age glaciers carved out an ideal region for growing wine grapes. Then, when the glaciers melted, the waters’ effect on the air combined with the cliffs to funnel maritime breezes through the region to create the perfect climate.

Dutch settlers took advantage of this 350 years ago and planted vines on a small island later called Manhattan. The Dutch were the first to plant vinifera (the common European species that forms the basis of almost all French wine), but found it wouldn’t survive in this colder region. Eventually growers learned that vinifera could be grafted onto native rootstock and production began in earnest.

HUDSON VALLEY

Further north in the Hudson Valley and Finger Lakes areas the first commercial wineries planted vinifera in the 1860s and began an industry that thrives today. Twenty-five years ago there were 19 wineries, now over 150.

As one example, here on 500 acres 28 wineries grow 1,280 tons of Seyval, Chardonnay and on another 10,000 acres during a 200 day growing season come 61,500 tons Riesling, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and others from 58 wineries.

Among these is the famous Benmarl, America’s oldest winery which produces Seyval Blanc and Baco Noir.

LAKE ERIE

Arctic air masses flow toward the Lake Erie region, but get water conditioned by the Great Lakes and trapped by the Allegheny Plateau to buffer the vines from extreme temperatures.

The largest area outside California (if the Pennsylvania acreage is included), with 20,000 acres under cultivation the grape production is a whopping 121,697 tons. From the Labrusca varieties of Concord and Niagara are produced grape juice, Seyval and Riesling.

Although 90% of the region’s Concord grapes are used for grape juice, there are seven wineries that grow European varieties for vinification.

LONG ISLAND

Known as New York’s ‘Bordeaux’ region, Long Island is the newest and fastest growing wine area. About 160km (100 mi) east of New York City the island separates into the North Fork and the South Fork separated by the Great Peconic Bay. The Bay and the Atlantic Ocean moderate the temperature, creating favorable conditions for Merlot, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Though small at only 1,600 acres and 4,800 tons of grape production, the 24 wineries located here are producing award winning vintages.

NEW YORK STATE

In 2004, considered a light year, over $400 million of New York wine was sold, with an economic impact on New York State of $3.3 billion. The total area under cultivation is second only to California and produces not only Labrusca, but Baco, Aurora, Riesling, Chardonnay.

And now that regulations have changed to permit shipping of New York wine out of state to be sold by direct mail, that number will undoubtedly grow significantly. And thanks, not only to changing laws, but to the continual improvements made by New York’s dedicated vintners.

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Winemakers in Alsace have been active since the Roman conquest.

The Alsatians themselves are a mixed French-Germanic lot, with many of the older inhabitants still speaking Alsatian, a Germanic dialect, at home. Despite living in the smallest winemaking region in France, these proud people rightfully boast of their centuries old winemaking traditions.

Six thousand wine growers live in a long sliver of land — 190km (118 mi) by 50km (31mi) near the German border, bordered on the West by the Vosages and the East by the Rhine. Strasbourg alone is home to over 450,000 of the areas 1.8 million residents.

Theirs is a difficult endeavor, wrestling with hot summers and cold winters that see frequent snowfall. Soil in the region is among the most diverse types of all France’s famous grape producing regions. From sand and granite to clay and marl, with a smattering even of volcanic soil, emerges some of the finest Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Gewürztraminer grapes, nestled on neatly laid out rows of hardy vines.

The juice of these grapes, grown on an area covering 37,000 acres, eventually fill 165 million bottles, some 20 percent of France’s annual wine output. Ninety percent is dedicated to making the region’s world famous whites, whose names betray their German influence.

Along with the more well-known Riesling and Gewürztraminer, which respectively comprise 23 percent and 18 percent of Alsace’s unique grapes, there are Tokay and Sylvaner.

Tokay is a delightful full-bodied white made solely from Pinot Gris. On a mere 3,200 acres of clay-limestone is produced 22 million bottles of this liquid treat with aromas of wood and spice. It goes perfectly with Quiche Lorraine, but can even substitute for a red when serving a red meat dish.

Sylvaner, originally from Austria, has been made in Alsace for over two hundred years. Or, as the Alsatians would say ‘only’ two centuries. It forms the starting point of a fruity, dry white that’s a perfect pairing for fish or pork. Though Alsatians don’t object to serving it with nothing more than fresh sauerkraut.

On only 3,000 acres, 12 percent of the Alsace vineyards’ area, 20 million bottles are produced of this refreshing, light white that ages well up to five years.

For those who enjoy a fruity wine, the Pinot Blanc makes a dry white that hints of peaches or pears, which pairs perfectly with a Munster cheese. Some 7,000 acres of sandstone of all things provides the soil from which ultimately comes 33 million bottles.

Crémant d’Alsace, a sparkling white made the same way as Champagne, is a blend of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris or Pinot Noir. Its aroma of red fruits, apricots and almonds make a wonderful pairing with Langres cheese.

When investigating any Alsatian wine, be sure to look for the classification ‘Grand Crus’, a grade which distinguishes the best of the regions’ wines.

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Stretching from the hills of the Apennines to the banks of the Po River to the shores of the Adriatic Sea is a distinctive Italian winemaking region called: Emilia-Romagna. Famed for its cooking, the area boasts some of the most fertile plains for grape growing in Italy.

The regional capital of Bologna joins the two sections of Emilia and Romagna and together these two cousins of winemaking rank sixth in size at 22,000 square km (8,500 sq mi) and 8th in population with nearly 4 million souls.

Vineyards of the area cover over 58,000 hectares (144,000 acres) producing an annual total of 473 million liters. Whether from the cool terraces of the Alps or the torrid fields of the Po basin, the wineries here contribute almost 20% of total Italian wine production. They rank a proud fourth after Apulia, Sicily and Veneto, helping to achieve Italy’s off-again on-again world dominance (against France) in wine production.

Trebbiano and Sangiovese alone account for almost half the varietals grown here. The Sangiovese remains the local favorite red with its robust and fruity flavors, but there’s also a delightfully dry Lambrusco in a style rarely seen outside the country.

The Lambrusco grapes are grown on high trellised vines mostly in the flatlands south of the Po where the output reaches 50 million bottles a year in the four DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata, a legal designation) regions around Modena and Reggio.

The better known Sauvignon and Chardonnay, and also the Pinot and Cabernet, are still wildly popular, of course. But, the rarer varieties, such as the white Pagadebit and red Cagnina, are well-hidden, but highly appreciated local treats. And from the hills south of Imola, Forli, and Rimini come many zesty semisweets.

Reds range from the Barbera and Bonarda with their distinctive regional intensity all the way to the pungent Pinots and Merlots of Colli Piacentini and Colli Bolognesi.

For those preferring something lighter on the tongue there are the dry whites of Ortrugo, Albana and Malvasia. The latter, thought to be of Greek origin, is among the most cultivated in all Italy. The native Albana, which produced Italy’s first DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) quality white, has high acidity and produces a wonderful dry Albana Passito with hints of apricot.

For the cognoscenti, there’s even the excellent Primitivo di Manduria from Puglia with medium to medium-high alcohol content, perfect for pairing with chocolate.

Best of all is to visit in the fall, after the hot and humid summer and sample from one of the many fine, traditional wineries set among the glorious green flat plains of Emilia-Romagna. And be sure to ask to pair with the local cheese. Not to be missed.

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The wines of Spain, like its people, are diverse, robust, and full of life. The roots of Spanish winemaking go back thousands of years and form a proud tradition of quality. Nowhere is this more evident than in Andalusia, where sherry is the beverage of choice.

A fortified wine (distilled alcohol is added before aging), sherry is actually several wines. Fino, Oloroso, Manzanilla, and — the drink made famous by Edgar Allan Poe — Amontillado, are among the varieties all called sherry.

The Fino and Manzanilla are younger and crisper, more acidic. The Olorosos and Amontillados are longer in the barrel, growing more mellow as they age.

Often drunk as dessert wines, especially by the British for whom sherry became something of a national drink, they go well with many other kinds of foods.

The British have more to thank Spain for than sherry, though. Not only did Henry VIII’s first wife come from the region, so did the well-regarded Carignan.

As you would expect, reds are prominent in this land of ample sunshine and red soil. The Aragonese don’t disappoint, producing many full-bodied wines, full of color and aroma. The Grenache, of course, is considered a regional treasure by vintners in this area.

Castilla, having it’s own literary heritage, produces wine equally deserving of fame. To many, the entire region is considered one enormous vineyard. La Mancha, evoking memories of Don Quixote, is one reason for the reputation. It’s reputed to be the largest wine region in the world, though there are many Frenchmen who would, of course, argue.

Just to show how iconoclastic they truly are, from this powerhouse of winemaking comes a white named Airen. Crisp and delightful, it ensures that no Spanish knight will need to slay doubters.

Reds are well represented, though, by the Tempranillo often blended with French varieties, such as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. Even Syrahs are beginning to be seen here.

North of Madrid are to be found the whites of Rueda. Delicate and light, they’re made from a local variety called Verdejo. Sauvignon Blanc, too, is making an appearance.

But traditions in Spain change slowly and red is still dominant. Robust and heavy, the Ribera has seen a renaissance in the the last few decades. The Tinto Fino, a kind of Tempranillo makes a complex red that ages well.

Mencia has its own tradition of red, based on the Cabernet Franc. Secluded near Castilla y Leon, the wines are intense. Lighter roses are a staple of the region, too, though. A specialty white, made from Godello, is produced here as well.

Catalonia, with coasts on the Mediterranean, has been making wine since the first Greeks arrived here. It continues those ancient traditions with vinos rancios that are only for the most hardy. But, for those who prefer something lighter, Catalonia is happy to provide a white from the Penedes.

It will also cheerfully serve a sparkling wine from Cava. The latter is actually a kind of Spanish champagne, but much more full-bodied than the French version, as befits the area.

But to get the most distinctive feel, the best bet is to try one of the reds of Tarragona. Full-bodied, from Cariñena and Garnacha grown in slate-enriched earth, it forms the pinnacle of wine from Catalonia.

Last, but far from least, Galicia continues to make wines as it has since Roman times — though in recent times the whites have come to the fore. Here Celtic traditions mix with Roman to produce wines that combine with seafood like no others in the world.

The moist climate and lower amount of sunshine produce wines high in acid and delightfully crisp. Most are made from varieties found only here.

Like so much about Spain, the country is filled deep with traditions but reaching into the 21st century to produce wines that can compete with any from around the world.

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